Quote:
Originally Posted by jack2012
a 0w-30 oil is synthetic. Have you been using synthetic in the engine since new? If not, introducing synthetic oil at this stage in it's life could create oil-leaks through the front & rear crankshaft seals and at the the camshaft seal.
What you describe as "clicking and clacking noise" is very hard to diagnose through the interrnet without an audio recording. I will assume you are referring to hydraulic lifter noise, which the first step to diagnose the problem is with an oil pressure gauge. The noise could be caused by insufficient oil pressure filling up the lifters, therefore making a noise. If the oil pressure is good, it could be one or more collapsed or stuck lifters. Other than that, it could be a worn camshaft lobe causing the noise.
Don't be nervous about the zero in the oil designation. The first number in the oil rating refers to the oil's film when it's cold. The oil will flow like a zero weight oil, which is something like having pumpability down to -45 celius (I don't know the exact number). The "w" refers to winter, which means you can use the oil throughout the whole year. The 30 refers to the weight of the oil at operating temperature.
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We are looking at 10W-30, not 0W-30 I believe.
The first number has nothing to do with pour point and is actually slightly variable at what temp it is measured at. We usually just say 32 Degrees F. or 0 Celsius.
Pour point will vary depending on additives and whether synthetic or petroleum. Most petroleum oils are solidified at -40 F. Some synthetics will still flow out of the bottle at -65 F.
The second number is always measured at 100 Degrees Celsius.
Also, Synthetic oils do not cause leaks. You can switch at any time to a synthetic oil and back to petroleum if you so choose.
The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best
Bob