2006> RS50/RX50/SX50 De-restriction, Reliability & Performance Upgrades - Page 2 - Aprilia Forum: Aprilia Motorcycle Forums
Aprilia RS Forum: RS50, RS125, RS250 Discussion of the Aprilia RS50, RS125 and RS250 motorcycles.

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post #11 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-03-2017, 03:07 PM Thread Starter
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Fixing the 2006-2010 RX / SX design flaw



You can either send an email or write a letter to Aprilia.. who will completely ignore it, or spend your own hard-earned money on replacing a few parts with updated designs. If you're considering owning an RX50 / SX50 manufactured before 2011.. i will now relieve myself all over your "bargain-priced fun" bonfire. See this thread.

2006-2010 Parts needing replacing with..

2011> Rear wheel.
2011> Axle pin.
2011> Swing arm.
2011> Chain tensioners.
2014> 218mm rear brake disc.
2014> Rear brake caliper.

2014> rear caliper can be removed with a 13mm ring spanner for cleaning the pistons and changing brake pads w/o removing the wheel, which makes frequent maintenance an easier chore. Apply medium strength threadlocker to mounting screws when refitting the caliper, brake disc or rear sprocket. Melt the old threadlocker with a heat gun or blowtorch before unscrewing.




Brake pad backings should always have a layer of copper based anti-seize smeared all over, otherwise.. you'll wonder where the high frequency brake squealing and juddering's coming from. Loctite C5-A has a thick texture that doesn't run off too easily and withstands higher temperatures than usual copper stuff. This should also be applied to the swing arm pin every 6 months to avoid having to grind the expensive swing arm in half for gaining access to the seized pin with a big, heavy, powerful angle grinder.

What are the "best" brake pads?

Double-H Sintered. I use EBC branded pads in front / rear calipers. These OEM organic pads are new, so switching to sintered pads before they start nearing the wear limit would be a waste. When fitting a new brake disc, always include use a set of new caliper pads so they wear together correctly.

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Last edited by MacGuyver; 03-23-2017 at 03:06 PM. Reason: typo
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post #12 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-16-2017, 08:23 AM Thread Starter
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Those thin brittle loom wires can only be repaired a few times before needing to shell out on a whole new wiring loom of the same inferior quality, repairing wires on a frequent basis isn't uncommon. OEM digital dashboard backlight ain't so reliable either. Nothing beats an old mechanical analogue for simplicity and reliability IMHO.

*Analogue dashboard assembly part reference: Derbi 864515

*Speedometer cable part reference: 00H01616021

*RX50's with 21" front wheel: Hub sensor part reference: 00H01613051

*SX50's with 17" front wheel: Hub sensor part reference: 00H01614051




Speedometer Backlight: Use a handlebar-mounted auxiliary ON/OFF switch, connect either Brown or Green wire to it. Make a loom and connect it to the bike's battery, run one of the battery wires to the other backlight wire.




The drawback with the old gen analogue is the 80 Km/h 50 mph needle limit. A Derbi Senda 125 unit costs 3 times more. If you own a 2014> bike.. you will have to replace the front wheel with a used or new one from a 2006-2013 model to use the cable-driven sensor.



The other instrument bulbs are unnecessary luxury features that don't need connecting to anything. Unless blind as a bat.. you'll know when the high beam is activated, turn signals flash, and the fuel tank needs topping up.

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Originally Posted by MacGuyver View Post

Once the engine starts cutting out' pull in the clutch lever - reach down and switch to "RESERVE"

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Last edited by MacGuyver; 03-18-2017 at 10:19 AM.
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