Amsoil to introduce their new 10w 30 motorcycle oil August 1st

[Amsoil Dealer G]

Since several OEM's are now recommending a 10w 30 motorcylce oil Amsoil will be bringing theirs to the market on August 1st. This oil will have all the same performance inhancements as their 10w 40's and 20w 50's have. Benefits like cooler running engine temperatures in both air cooled as well as liquid cooled engines, superior wear control, foaming control. viscosity stability for transmissions, wet clutch compatibility, reduced oil consumption. and excellent storage protection.
george
ADG

[TriumphIsMyBaby]

I guess we'll have to wait and see if it works.

[Amsoil Dealer G]

Originally Posted by TriumphIsMyBaby

I guess we'll have to wait and see if it works.

Do you really feel that an OEM recommending this would do so if it wouldn't work? If they did make the mistake it at least would be covered under warranty. OEM's do tons of field and lab testing before they make recommendations on service.
george
ADG

[beanoil]

Is there a reference list of the manufacturers that are recommending 10w30 in bikes? Aprilia says 5w40, as does Kawasaki, and Suzuki off road. Honda is still recommending 10w40. Seems like a really small market, and even if recommended, I bet most folks would opt for a 10w40 or 20w50 if an option is listed in the owners manual. Regardless, fresh oil, changed regularly is the key to long engine life, especially in engines that share the oil with the gearbox.

[Amsoil Dealer G]

Originally Posted by beanoil

Is there a reference list of the manufacturers that are recommending 10w30 in bikes? Aprilia says 5w40, as does Kawasaki, and Suzuki off road. Honda is still recommending 10w40. Seems like a really small market, and even if recommended, I bet most folks would opt for a 10w40 or 20w50 if an option is listed in the owners manual. Regardless, fresh oil, changed regularly is the key to long engine life, especially in engines that share the oil with the gearbox.

The reality is that many OEM's are going with thinner oils due to fuel economy and EPA issues. 7 to 8 years ago Ford was the first to require a 20 weight oil in all their v-8 engines and now many OEM's have followed suit. Engines are not wearing prematurely so the fears of too thin of a viscosity has been unfounded. The same will happen in the motorcycle market. I don't have a list of who is requiring or who will in the future, but it is a trend and unless there is some sort of downside found down the road, most new water cooled bikes will be requiring it. I know new Goldwings are requiring it and on the 600rr.net site they have been discussing it for their new bikes.
george
ADG

[shenqicoco]

Sorry. The administrator has banned your IP address. To contact the administrator click here

[jack2012]

a 0w-30 oil is synthetic. Have you been using synthetic in the engine since new? If not, introducing synthetic oil at this stage in it's life could create oil-leaks through the front & rear crankshaft seals and at the the camshaft seal.

What you describe as "clicking and clacking noise" is very hard to diagnose through the interrnet without an audio recording. I will assume you are referring to hydraulic lifter noise, which the first step to diagnose the problem is with an oil pressure gauge. The noise could be caused by insufficient oil pressure filling up the lifters, therefore making a noise. If the oil pressure is good, it could be one or more collapsed or stuck lifters. Other than that, it could be a worn camshaft lobe causing the noise.

Don't be nervous about the zero in the oil designation. The first number in the oil rating refers to the oil's film when it's cold. The oil will flow like a zero weight oil, which is something like having pumpability down to -45 celius (I don't know the exact number). The "w" refers to winter, which means you can use the oil throughout the whole year. The 30 refers to the weight of the oil at operating temperature.
__________________________________________________ _________
chevrolet tahoe hub bearing scion parts

[Amsoil Dealer G]

Originally Posted by winner2010

It's false economy not to change it. You're talking under $10 at the most. (More likely $3 to $5) If you don't change it, you introduce dirty oil back into the system when you start it up since that trapped in the filter doesn't drain out.

If you use a $3-5.00 filter, you may be correct, even some more expensive filters could have that problem.

That is why I recommend the AMSOIL EA Series filter for wherever we have one to fit the application as it is the Best filter you can buy.

If we don't have one, I refer to a WIX filter.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

[Amsoil Dealer G]

Originally Posted by jack2012

a 0w-30 oil is synthetic. Have you been using synthetic in the engine since new? If not, introducing synthetic oil at this stage in it's life could create oil-leaks through the front & rear crankshaft seals and at the the camshaft seal.

What you describe as "clicking and clacking noise" is very hard to diagnose through the interrnet without an audio recording. I will assume you are referring to hydraulic lifter noise, which the first step to diagnose the problem is with an oil pressure gauge. The noise could be caused by insufficient oil pressure filling up the lifters, therefore making a noise. If the oil pressure is good, it could be one or more collapsed or stuck lifters. Other than that, it could be a worn camshaft lobe causing the noise.

Don't be nervous about the zero in the oil designation. The first number in the oil rating refers to the oil's film when it's cold. The oil will flow like a zero weight oil, which is something like having pumpability down to -45 celius (I don't know the exact number). The "w" refers to winter, which means you can use the oil throughout the whole year. The 30 refers to the weight of the oil at operating temperature.

We are looking at 10W-30, not 0W-30 I believe.

The first number has nothing to do with pour point and is actually slightly variable at what temp it is measured at. We usually just say 32 Degrees F. or 0 Celsius.

Pour point will vary depending on additives and whether synthetic or petroleum. Most petroleum oils are solidified at -40 F. Some synthetics will still flow out of the bottle at -65 F.

The second number is always measured at 100 Degrees Celsius.

Also, Synthetic oils do not cause leaks. You can switch at any time to a synthetic oil and back to petroleum if you so choose.

The Best isn't cheap
Cheap isn't The Best

Bob

[CAVPILOT]

Also, Synthetic oils do not cause leaks. You can switch at any time to a synthetic oil and back to petroleum if you so choose.

TRUE-TRUE!
Thank you, Bob...that has got to be the biggest wive's tale out there!